The Donkey Sanctuary has produced this guide to help with stable measurements for your donkeys, find out the optimum stable sizes and layouts to ensure your donkeys' safety and well-being.

Door height

The stable door should be low enough for your donkeys to lean over but high enough to prevent them from jumping out. Stable doors made for horses at 132 cm are too high for standard donkeys, but may be suitable if you have a large donkey breed. It is advisable to have a bottom bolt as some donkeys can learn to undo the top one. A bottom bolt will also prevent your donkeys from getting feet caught in the door should they kick it. Kick bolts are the easiest to use as they can be operated with your foot.

Ideally, for standard size donkeys the door width should be 122 cm with a bottom stable door height of 107 cm.

Floor level feeder

In the wild, donkeys graze with their heads down. It is not natural for them to eat from a haynet or rack. If they reach up for their food from a haynet or rack then some particles could fall into their ears or eyes and respiratory problems can be exacerbated. It is difficult to have them at a safe height for all. To prevent this, provide a floor level feeder with no sharp edges. Place enough straw in the feeder so that they can browse through it. There will be no waste as the remainder can be used for bedding the following day. However, take care to fill floor feeders no higher than a donkey’s shoulder as overfilling also brings risks to their ears and eyes. False bottoms should be fitted to floor feeders so that donkeys do not have to reach inside down to the floor, which can cause damage to their windpipe. If possible, position the feeder so that the donkey’s feet are not on the bedding while they are eating.

Straw feeder measurements

Ideally this should be 61 cm wide by 91 cm long by 69 cm high. False bottoms should be fitted to floor feeders to help prevent injury to a donkey's throat while reaching in to eat from the feeder.

Water 

Donkeys should always have access to a clean water supply. They are very fussy about what they drink.  A securely supported bucket or a self-filling trough should be constantly available and should be cleaned out daily. The use of buckets allows the accurate monitoring of water intake but a self-filling water trough does mean that their water will not run out during the day or night. As a rough guide, the trough needs to be approximately 76 cm from the floor to the top edge of the trough.
 
To help prevent troughs from freezing during winter months a small floating football can be placed into the trough to keep the surface water moving or a float heater can be purchased. Other more sophisticated antifreeze devices are also available. Plywood can be used to cover and insulate part of the trough leaving a smaller space for your donkeys to drink from and the trough, if mobile, can be sited somewhere it will catch the winter sun during the day, therefore making it less likely to freeze. If you are not at home during the day consider placing a bucket of water in their stable where it is unlikely to freeze. 

Mineral lick

An equine mineral lick should be hung up inside your stable or shelter so that the donkeys can supplement their diet as they wish. Molasses treat licks are not encouraged due to the amount of molasses that they contain which can cause the onset of laminitis

Electricity supply

Electric lights are highly desirable in the winter months and the facility for a heat lamp is useful, especially for old or unwell donkeys. All wiring should be encased in rat-proof tubing and all switches should be donkey-proof and positioned outside the stable. Lights should have plastic covers and wire mesh guards.

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Information for donkey owners